Via Francigena

Nicola Inversi’s journey: cycling the Francigena with Erin 

Imagine setting off on a cycling adventure, traveling through breathtaking landscapes, hidden villages, and towering mountains. And what if your loyal four-legged friend were by your side every step of the way? 

That’s exactly what Nicola Inversi did, accompanied by his inseparable companion Erin, along the Via Francigena. Their adventures, always shared on social media, reveal a unique way of traveling where every stage is a shared emotion with the community. 

In this interview, he tells us about their extraordinary journey, filled with emotions, challenges, and unforgettable encounters. 

How did the adventure with Erin begin? What was your first trip together? 

Erin has been by my side on backpacking trips from the very beginning. When she was just eight months old, we were already hiking in the Dolomites and making short excursions to Lake Vipiteno. From that moment on, we never stopped. Together, we’ve walked many trails and reached dozens of peaks across the Apennines and beyond. 

In 2023, we started traveling by bike as well. Erin, due to her age and some health issues, can’t walk as much as she used to. So, we set off from Rome with the goal of reaching Nordkapp in Norway. It was an incredible journey, the most beautiful experience of my life, even though it ended north of Stockholm. Last year, we cycled the Via Francigena. 

🚵🏻 The Via Francigena experience 

Tell us about your journey: what stages did you complete? 

We traveled the entire stretch from Aosta to Rome. Since we left in late winter, we couldn’t cross the Great St. Bernard Pass due to snow. We started on March 24, 2024, and arrived at St. Peter’s on April 18, completing the journey in 20 days, with a few rest days. 

The original plan was to reach Santa Maria di Leuca, but during the trip we encountered an abnormal heatwave that made the temperatures unbearable. For Erin’s health, I decided to stop. However, we didn’t give up on our goal, and after some time, we resumed and completed the journey all the way to the Puglian destination. 

What motivated you to cycle the Via Francigena with Erin? 

After the experience abroad, I felt the need to stay in Italy. People often ask us which was the most beautiful country we traveled through, and I’ve always answered: Italy. Every country has its charm, but the richness and variety of Italian landscapes are unique and unrepeatable. You never get bored traveling in Italy—nature, art, history, food, and so much more. 

🇮🇹 Moreover, our country is full of small villages that are real hidden gems, even though sadly little known. The depopulation of inland areas makes discovering these places even more special. 

What were the best and most difficult moments of the trip? Any anecdotes you’d like to share? 

Traveling with your dog is so wonderful that every moment becomes special. Dogs are masters at living in the present, which makes them perfect travel companions. The most beautiful moments for me were the departure at the foot of the Alps, crossing the Apennines, and of course, arriving in Rome. It’s not just the end of the Via Francigena, but also the return home after weeks on the road: a unique feeling. 

Every time we stopped for lunch, to play, or simply to enjoy a view, it was a special moment. Slow travel teaches us to value the essentials, and when you do it with your dog, everything becomes more intense

Another memory I’ll always carry with me is the people we met: every day we made new friends, some of whom had been following us online and did everything they could to meet us. Every encounter was full of affection and warmth. 

⛈️ The hardest moment was on the fourth day. We left Garlasco aiming to reach near Piacenza, but after 25 km we had to stop in Pavia. The relentless rain and humidity made the trip exhausting. After an hour, I was already soaked and freezing, though Erin was safe in her carrier. We looked for shelter under a porch to change and find a warm place. I’ll never forget that cold, even though I had already faced many rainy days in the past. 

How did you plan the route? 

The journey’s planning was heavily influenced by Erin’s presence. Traveling with a dog means putting their well-being first. Dogs follow us out of instinct, so it’s our duty to ensure their health, peace, and happiness—and that must always be the top priority. 

We chose stages of about 50 km, which is already a lot considering the weight I had to push, and sometimes we took shorter stages depending on the terrain. The choice of stops also depended on the availability of pet-friendly accommodations

🌳 Every two hours at most, I would stop to let Erin out, and anytime we passed a park or green area, we took a break to relax. 

🐶 Cycling with a dog 

How do you transport Erin by bike? What gear do you use? 

Erin and I travel on a cargo bike, a bicycle designed to carry both goods and people. Erin rides comfortably in a carrier, which is actually meant for children. In Northern Europe, families use this special bike to take their children everywhere, in any season. 

This bike also allows us to carry rear panniers with clothes, food, and tools. Erin’s food, for example, is stored in two jars tied to the base of the handlebars. 

Have you ever faced difficulties with accommodation along the way? 

Traveling with a dog comes with challenges, especially when it comes to finding pet-friendly accommodations. Sometimes such places are scarce, but with a bit of organization and planning ahead, good solutions can be found. 

Often, the extra charge for dogs is excessive compared to the service offered. Even when camping, we had trouble finding suitable places to spend the night, especially inland and between late winter and early spring. Even in some hostels, despite having booked in advance, we were given uncomfortable and disrespectful accommodations, separating us from other pilgrims. 

🐾 Future plans 

What’s the next journey you’d like to take with your four-legged travel companion? Do you have any plans for the future? 

Dreams never end: Nordkapp, Santiago de Compostela, Rome-Paris, and Ireland. In fact, the name Erin was inspired by my love for Ireland, where I’ve already done two complete crossings. 

At the moment, our next trip might be in Southern Italy: I’d like to complete the Francigena and then continue south, crossing regions all the way to Sicily. 

💡Advice for fellow travelers 

What advice would you give to someone who wants to embark on a long bike trip with their dog?

Traveling with a dog makes things a bit more complicated, especially on a bike, and even more so with a medium-sized dog. For small dogs, a front-wheel carrier might be enough. There are many cargo bike models to fit every need. 

1️⃣ The most important thing is always to ensure the dog’s well-being. They must gradually get used to the new mode of transport, with a lot of patience. To start, I suggest practicing in a quiet environment; I started in our apartment building’s garage to avoid traffic and noise. 

2️⃣ It’s also essential to test different scenarios you might face on the road, like rain, wind, or encounters with other dogs. If traveling abroad, it’s crucial to learn about local pet laws, vaccinations, and emergency vet services

3️⃣ As for finding pet stores or veterinarians in case of need, our smartphones now make it easy and quick to access all this information. 

4️⃣ Lastly, it’s wise to have insurance for your dog too, especially when traveling abroad, where veterinary costs can be very high. 

Believe me, I say this from the heart: traveling with your dog is a unique and unforgettable experience. Once you try it, you’ll never want to go back! 

Picture of Redazione AEVF
Redazione AEVF
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