Welcome to the seventh chapter of our travel diary, which traces the entire official route of the Via Francigena from south to north in celebration of the Jubilee 2025.  

Stretching over 3,200 km, this historic medieval pilgrimage route crosses five countries (England, France, Switzerland, Vatican City, and Italy), sixteen regions, and more than six hundred towns and cities. It can be travelled on foot or by bicycle. Beginning in Kent, UK, the route passes through Hauts-de-France, Grand Est, and Bourgogne-Franche-Comté in France; the cantons of Vaud and Valais in Switzerland; and then into Italy via Valle d’Aosta, Piedmont, Lombardy, Emilia-Romagna, Liguria, Tuscany, Lazio, Campania, and Puglia, finally reaching Rome, heart of the Jubilee and home to the Vatican.  

In collaboration with Regione Lazio, this series of regional features sets off from Santa Maria di Leuca—the finibus terrae of Puglia—journeying northwards to explore each region along the way. Through these chapters, we delve into the landscapes, history, and cuisine of the areas the Via Francigena crosses, offering travel tips, highlights, and curious facts for each leg of the route.  

Shall we set off? 
Let’s begin! 

The Via Francigena in Piedmont 

In Piedmont, the Via Francigena unfolds across approximately 65 kilometres over four official stages of the Canavese section – or around 200 km if alternative routes are included – guiding pilgrims from the border with the Aosta Valley through to the plains of Vercelli, before entering the Lomellina area of Lombardy. This north-western stretch of the route is remarkable for the variety of its landscapes: from the wooded moraines of the Canavese to the rolling hills of Monferrato and the vast rice paddies surrounding Vercelli, the scenery unfolds in a continuous interplay of natural beauty and cultural heritage. 

The western variant of the Via Francigena, which runs through the Susa Valley and crosses the Mont Cenis and Montgenèvre passes, is a major historic route for pilgrims travelling along Europe’s great walking paths. This alternative route, stretching some 100 km, enters Italy from France, physically linking the Camino de Santiago with the main Via Francigena. Used since the Middle Ages, it was the path chosen by many pilgrims coming from the Iberian Peninsula and southern France. The trail offers breathtaking Alpine views and passes through villages rich in history and spiritual significance. Though less travelled today than the route via the Great St Bernard Pass, it remains a meaningful and evocative path. Its rediscovery now offers an authentic experience that aligns with the ancient pilgrimage routes, symbolically connecting the two great spiritual poles of medieval Europe: Santiago and Rome. 

The Piedmontese section of the route is largely flat, with occasional hilly stretches. It is accessible and full of unexpected vistas, suitable both for seasoned walkers and those taking their first steps into slow travel. 

Here, where pilgrimage intersects with ancient trade and faith routes, the journey becomes an immersive experience, weaving through medieval villages, abbeys, castles and communities that have welcomed travellers for centuries. Piedmont is a region where history, nature and tradition blend harmoniously, offering space for both contemplation and discovery. From the stillness of the rice fields to the majesty of the Sacra di San Michele, from the cobbled streets of Ivrea to the heady scents of Monferrato, every step invites you to slow down. 

History: Pilgrims and Medieval Towns – Vercelli and Ivrea 

To explore the Via Francigena in Piedmont, we begin with two symbolic locations from the history of medieval pilgrimage: Vercelli and Ivrea – cities that have welcomed travellers on their way to Rome for centuries. 

Vercelli, strategically located on the plain between the Sesia River and surrounding rice fields that glisten like mirrors, was once home to one of the most important hospices of its time, offering pilgrims rest, medical care and shelter – including Archbishop Sigeric, who passed through here. The spiritual heart of the city is the Basilica of Sant’Andrea, a masterpiece of Cistercian Gothic architecture built in the early 13th century, renowned for its striking façade and intricate architectural details. Still today, it is a place of rest and reflection for modern pilgrims. Vercelli also boasts several museums, including the Cathedral Treasury Museum, where visitors can admire exquisite medieval goldsmithing and precious manuscripts from the Chapter Library – among them, the Vercelli Book, a rare Anglo-Saxon document. Strolling through the cobbled streets of the historic centre, with its medieval towers, arcades and ancient palaces, is like walking in the footsteps of past pilgrims through a living tapestry of history, culture and tradition. 

Continuing northward, the route leads to Ivrea – a former Roman and later Lombard city, nestled between hills and the Dora Baltea River. Known as the historical home of the Olivetti family, Ivrea invites visitors to explore the MaAM – an open-air museum of modern architecture. The city has a longstanding tradition of hospitality, thanks to its network of convents and rural churches, and its historical role as a crossroads for trade and travel. Notable landmarks include the imposing Savoy Castle with its square layout and cylindrical towers, and the Cathedral of Santa Maria, which features a 19th-century façade and a Romanesque crypt dating back to the 10th–12th centuries. Today, Ivrea continues to reflect a strong civic identity, evident in the high quality of services available to walkers and pilgrims. 

And it is precisely along the Via Francigena near Ivrea that one of the most significant and innovative projects linked to the route is taking shape: “Via Francigena For All.” 

This initiative, developed along the Canavese stretch between Ivrea and Viverone, as well as the Susa Valley variant between Villar Focchiardo and Avigliana, aims to make the route accessible to people with motor or sensory disabilities. It marks a vital step towards a more inclusive and sustainable pilgrimage experience. 

Ramps, accessible signage, tactile maps, and routes adapted for wheelchairs or all-terrain mobility aids allow an increasing number of people to enjoy the journey safely and independently. 

This is a new form of pilgrimage, where the value of the journey lies not in physical performance, but in sharing, slowness, and openness to others. 

Walking through Vercelli and Ivrea along the Via Francigena is not only a journey through time, but also a living testimony to the present. Here, ancient history meets today’s commitment to an open, welcoming and inclusive route – a legacy that continues, step by step, into the future. 

A Little Curiosity: The Underground Lake Beneath the Basilica of Sant’Andrea 

Beneath the elegant architecture of Vercelli lies a hidden and fascinating world, steeped in legend, secret passageways and underground chambers. One of the most intriguing discoveries is an underground lake, recently uncovered through archaeological research, believed to lie directly beneath the Abbey of Sant’Andrea. According to local lore, a raft once floated on its waters, used to cross the subterranean basin – accessible only via hidden tunnels winding beneath the church. These passageways, once used to move about unseen, still guard their secrets – including the mystery of two skeletons found near the Monastery of Santa Chiara, possibly a thief and a nun whose escape ended in tragedy. 

Other tunnels, according to popular accounts, were used by gamblers, secret lovers and libertines to evade the authorities – particularly in the area between Via Bodo, Corso Libertà and the Civic Theatre. Even more surprising is the discovery of a second, mirror-like underground space, partially flooded and probably constructed in 1909. Both chambers, supported by columns and pillars, extend for dozens of metres and were likely used as cisterns – although there are tantalising signs that they may have served other, more mysterious purposes. A truly parallel world, which makes Vercelli all the more mysterious and captivating. 

Points of Interest: The Rice Fields of Vercelli, the Sacra di San Michele, the Susa Valley (an alternative Via Francigena route), and the Balmetti of Borgofranco d’Ivrea 

It goes without saying that the Via Francigena in Piedmont is emerging as one of the most evocative and surprising stretches of the entire route. Its location – straddling plains, hills and the Alpine mountains – combined with its remarkable historical and scenic heritage, makes it an unmissable destination for those seeking an authentic and varied experience. While in the past these lands were traversed mainly for religious or commercial purposes, today they attract walkers, tourists and slow travellers from around the world, eager to immerse themselves in a landscape that tells stories of ancient times and natural beauty with equal power. 

The variety of places along the way makes it hard to narrow down the highlights – but we’ve tried. 

The rice fields of the Vercelli area are among the first iconic landscapes one encounters. In spring and early summer, when the fields are flooded, the plain becomes a vast mirror of water – a unique environment, almost suspended between sky and earth. Here, the walk takes on a meditative pace, slow and contemplative, marked by the call of herons and the soft sound of water between the dykes. It is a landscape shaped by agricultural labour, yet deeply spiritual too – a place that invites silence and reflection, in perfect harmony with the spirit of pilgrimage. 

A little further west rises the Sacra di San Michele – imposing and solitary – one of Piedmont’s most powerful symbols. Perched atop Mount Pirchiriano, at the entrance to the Susa Valley, between the Cottian Alps and the Po Valley, it is accessible via a detour from the official route. The effort of the climb is richly rewarded with breathtaking views and a mystical atmosphere that defies description. Founded between the 10th and 11th centuries, the Sacra has inspired legends, novels (famously influencing Umberto Eco’s The Name of the Rose), and even esoteric traditions linked to the Sacred Line of Saint Michael. 

Also in the Susa Valley winds an alternative route of the Via Francigena, chosen by many pilgrims to avoid more trafficked sections and rediscover the route’s alpine and untamed character. This path, which traverses ancient military roads, castles, abbeys and small mountain villages, brings back the essence of the medieval journey: slow, uncertain, yet full of encounters and revelations. It is a valley of many tongues – Italian, French, Occitan – which has welcomed pilgrims, merchants and soldiers for centuries. Today, it is an ideal place for those seeking a deeper connection with nature and local tradition. 

Another unusual and enchanting stop is the Balmetti of Borgofranco d’Ivrea – a small network of natural cellars carved into the rock, where for centuries wine and local produce have been preserved thanks to a unique geological phenomenon: cold air currents that blow all year round, keeping temperatures constant. But the Balmetti are more than just storage spaces – they are centres of sociability and conviviality, true microcosms of community life where events and celebrations are still held today, and where the culture of wine is inseparable from friendship and hospitality. Pilgrims who pause here find not only refreshment, but a living story of the deep bond between people and the land. 

A Little Curiosity: The “Via Angelica” of Saint Michael 

Among the most fascinating legends surrounding the Sacra di San Michele is that of the “Via Michelita” or “Via Angelica” – an ancient spiritual path followed by medieval pilgrims. This route links three sacred sites dedicated to the Archangel Michael: Mont Saint-Michel in Normandy, the Sacra di San Michele in Piedmont, and Monte Sant’Angelo in Puglia. 

According to tradition, the line connecting these sanctuaries was traced by Saint Michael’s sword during his battle against Lucifer – leaving an invisible yet spiritually and energetically charged mark upon the Earth. One point of this mysterious energy is said to lie at the entrance of the Sacra, beneath a paler floor tile. Remarkably, the Sacra di San Michele stands exactly halfway between Mont Saint-Michel and Monte Sant’Angelo – 1,000 kilometres from each. But the legend doesn’t stop there: this sacred line is believed to connect numerous sites dedicated to Saint Michael, forming a symbolic path stretching from Ireland to Jerusalem. 

Traditions: Festivals, Fairs and Historic Markets 

In Piedmont, fairs and historic markets are not merely economic or touristic events—they are true celebrations of the land, its seasonal rhythms, its produce, and its cultural memory. Since the Middle Ages, the passage of pilgrims along the Via Francigena has often coincided with the great fairs that brought life to village squares and town centres—moments not just of trade, but of festivity and popular gathering. 

In Vercelli, for instance, weekly markets continue a tradition rooted in centuries of local life. Set in the heart of the rice fields, the stalls offer typical products from the Po Valley, including rice, cheeses, cured meats and seasonal vegetables. 

A not-to-be-missed event is the Fiera di San Savino, dedicated to the patron saint of Ivrea. Held every July, it is a highly anticipated occasion that enlivens the entire city with a rich and varied programme. One of its highlights is the horse fair—among the most important in Italy—which underlines Ivrea’s historic connection with the equestrian world. Alongside religious ceremonies and civic celebrations, cultural, artistic and entertainment events take over the streets, turning the city into an open-air stage for locals and visitors alike. 

Also in Ivrea, the Carnival festivities are famous and distinctly unique. Known throughout Italy for one extraordinary event—the Battle of the Oranges—Ivrea’s Carnival is an immersive experience that involves the whole town, drawing in curious visitors from far and wide. 

In the heart of Monferrato, along the hilly sections of the Via Francigena, many villages host seasonal fairs and traditional markets during the grape harvest or hazelnut gathering. These are more than agricultural events—they are moments of identity and heritage: where old crafts are revived, family recipes are shared, and a sense of community is rekindled. 

To take part in one of these fairs is to walk through time, and to come into contact with an authentic Piedmont—where history is not locked in museums, but lives on in the hands, faces, and gestures of its people. 

Gastronomy: Ravioli del Plin, Bunet, hazelnuts, white truffles and Barolo 

To eat along the Via Francigena in Piedmont is to undertake a journey into the most sincere heart of rural and alpine tradition. Here, among rice fields, rolling hills and woodland, one discovers a cuisine that marries simplicity and sophistication, where every ingredient tells a story, and every dish is a fragment of collective memory. 

Among the region’s iconic specialities are ravioli del plin—tiny parcels of egg pasta filled with roast meat or vegetables, pinched closed by hand (hence the name plin, dialect for ‘pinch’). Served with roast meat juices, butter and sage, or simply a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil, they are a celebration of the artistry and affection that define traditional home cooking, passed down through generations. 

Another culinary emblem of Piedmont is bunet, a spoon dessert from the peasant tradition made with eggs, milk, sugar, cocoa and amaretti biscuits. Often enriched with a splash of liqueur, this rich, creamy pudding has graced Sunday tables for centuries, evoking memories of festive lunches and flour-dusted grandmothers in aprons. 

No overview of Piedmontese gastronomy would be complete without mention of one of the region’s true treasures: hazelnuts—especially the prized Tonda Gentile Trilobata variety from the Langhe, renowned worldwide for its aroma and texture. Used in pastries, pralines (like the famous gianduiotti), or simply roasted, these hazelnuts are a local excellence that has won global acclaim. 

And then there is the silent star of the woods: the white truffle of Alba. This rare and intoxicating delicacy is hunted with devotion by trifolau and their trained dogs among the hills of the Langhe and Roero. Every year, the Alba International White Truffle Fair celebrates this gastronomic gem with tastings, auctions and culinary events. Its intense aroma enhances tagliolini, risottos and eggs, offering an unforgettable sensory experience. 

Naturally, no meal is complete without a fine glass of wine. Barolo DOCG, known as the “king of wines”, is made from Nebbiolo grapes grown in the Langhe. With its garnet hue and complex bouquet of spices, preserved cherries, dried roses and liquorice, Barolo is a meditative wine—perfect with braised meats, game and mature cheeses. Aged for years in oak barrels, it gains ever greater depth and elegance with time. 

A curious fact: sunday bunet 
Bunet was traditionally prepared early on Sunday mornings, so it could cool and set in time for lunch. Every Piedmontese family has its own secret recipe: some use only cocoa, others add coffee or rum, some top it with crunchy caramel. According to one story, the name comes from the word bonet—a type of hat—because, like a hat, it “sits at the end of the meal” and brings everything together with flavour and style. 

Walking Itineraries for a Long Weekend or Short Break 

2-day itinerary: Ivrea to Santhià 

Day 1: Ivrea to Viverone – approx. 18 km, moderate elevation 
Depart from Ivrea, nestled between its medieval castle, cathedral and the Baroque Church of San Gaudenzio. The route heads south through the moraine amphitheatre, meandering between woods and vineyards, until reaching the shores of Lake Viverone—an evocative spot for an overnight stop, perhaps at a local agriturismo for a plate of fassona tartare and a glass of Erbaluce wine. 

Day 2: Viverone to Santhià – approx. 16 km, easy 
This second stage continues along country roads and gentle climbs, arriving in Santhià—set in the heart of the agricultural plain, where vibrant historic markets and deep-rooted traditions still thrive. Santhià is a key junction on the Via Francigena, linking the route to Turin with the Sigeric path towards Vercelli. 

Perfect for a relaxing weekend that blends lakeside scenery, gentle hills, tradition and medieval history. 

3-day itinerary: Ivrea to Vercelli 

Day 1: Ivrea to Viverone 
Day 2: Viverone to Santhià 
Day 3: Santhià to Vercelli – approx. 29 km 
The final stage leads into the rice fields of Vercelli—a unique landscape of water and soil, criss-crossed by canals and home to migratory birds. On arrival in Vercelli, one can admire medieval piazzas and the Basilica of Sant’Andrea, a Romanesque-Gothic gem. This route unites the Alpine border experience with the agricultural culture of the plains, through villages, lakes and historic towns. 

4-day itinerary: the Val di Susa variant – from Mont Cenis to the Sacra di San Michele 

For those with a longer break, adding the route from the Val di Susa to the Sacra di San Michele is an ideal option. After Vercelli, head towards the Val di Susa (by public transport or on foot), via Chivasso and then uphill to the Sacra—a steep but panoramic and spiritual route, culminating in the magnificent abbey perched atop Mount Pirchiriano. A stage that enhances the itinerary with mountain views and deep spiritual resonance, in true Francigena style. 

Day 1: Mont Cenis to Susa, 24, km, hard way. After crossing the Mont Cenis Pass, the route winds through Alpine villages like Moncenisio and Novalesa, rich in history and spirituality, with royal roads, open-air museums and waterfalls. It continues to Venaus, known for its traditional Sword Dance, and to Mompantero, at the foot of Mount Rocciamelone, a sacred peak since ancient times. The path then leads to Susa, a thousand-year-old city filled with Roman and medieval remains. Highlights include the Cathedral of San Giusto, Adelaide’s Castle, and the Diocesan Museum. A journey blending nature, faith, culture and tradition. 

Day 2: hike to the Sacra di San Michele, 27,1 km, in a difficoult route. Leaving Susa behind, the route winds through villages and landscapes rich in heritage: from Urbiano’s bear ritual to Foresto’s gorge, then on to medieval Bussoleno. The path continues through San Giorio, Villar Focchiardo and Sant’Antonino di Susa, marked by castles, historic churches and local traditions. In Vaie, archaeological trails lead to the Sanctuary of San Pancrazio, before reaching Chiusa San Michele, gateway to the iconic Sacra di San Michele. From there, an alternative route descends into the Val Sangone, passing Valgioie and arriving in Giaveno, known for its abbey-related past and charming old town. 

Day 3: Susa to Oulx, another hard camino for this third day, 27km. The route follows the Franks’ Trail, reaching Salbertrand with its Gran Bosco Park and Ecomuseum, and continues to Exilles, dominated by its imposing medieval fort. Passing through terraced Avanà vineyards, the trail leads to Chiomonte, a village filled with noble residences, frescoed chapels, and a richly decorated baroque parish church. The route continues along the Via dell’Avanà and the GTA trail to Giaglione, where the traditional Sword Dance is performed during patronal festivities. The stretch ends near the SS25 road and the Moncenisio route junction. 

Day 4: Oulx to Clavière, at last, the final stage: another 18.4 km, just as challenging and rewarding. From the Col du Montgenèvre, the ancient route from France to Italy enters the Susa Valley via Clavière and the scenic Gorges of San Gervasio, reaching Cesana Torinese and its Romanesque parish church. The path continues through the hamlets of Mollieres and Solomiac before descending to Oulx, overlooked by the Church of Santa Maria Assunta and the 15th-century Delfinal Tower. Once home to the powerful San Lorenzo Provostship and the autonomous Escarton administration, Oulx still celebrates the historic Fiera Franca fair. A scenic alternative route follows the Dora Riparia to Fenils, weather permitting. 

Some Useful Tips  

1. Prepare Your Gear  

• Hiking boots: choosing the right footwear is essential, especially for long distances. Opt for sturdy, comfortable shoes with good breathability and support. Lightweight trekking boots are ideal for extended walks. The heavier your rucksack, the more important it is to wear high-ankle boots to protect your back and ankles. See some suggestions from our partner Garmont here.  

• Backpack: pick a lightweight, comfortable backpack with adjustable straps and good ventilation. Don’t overpack — try to keep it under 10–15% of your body weight. Only bring the essentials. Recommended models from Ferrino can be found here.  

• Clothing: bring breathable, comfortable, and lightweight clothes. Depending on the season, pack a waterproof jacket for rain or wind, and a hat for sun protection. If you’re unsure where to buy these items, check here.  

• Trekking poles: extremely helpful for reducing strain on your knees, especially on inclines and descents. Browse options here.  

2. Plan Your Route and Stages  

• Distance and timing: daily walking distances typically range from 15 to 25 km. If you’re not used to walking long distances, start with shorter stages. Consider spreading the journey out over more days according to your ability.  

• Accommodation: along the route, you’ll find plenty of options — hostels, B&Bs, agritourism farms, and convents. Some areas also offer pilgrim refuges. Book in advance, especially during peak seasons (spring and summer).  

• How to get there: there are many ways to reach the Lazio region, but not all are eco-friendly or linked to the Via Francigena. We recommend travelling with FlixBus, Regionale or TrenitaliaTPER, both of which offer a 10% discount to holders of the official Pilgrim Passport (Credenziale).  

• Adaptability: not all stages have the same difficulty. Be flexible and ready to adapt as needed. Remember: this is not a race, but a personal and spiritual journey.  

• Guidebook: to avoid mishaps, we suggest bringing the Via Francigena guidebook by Terre di Mezzo, which includes routes and plenty of practical tips.  

• Pilgrim Passport: a must for every true pilgrim. The official Credential of the Via Francigena, available here, offers access to discounts, special rates, and allows you to collect original stamps along your journey.  

3. Safety and Health  

• Water and food: always carry at least 2 litres of water. Some stages may lack easy access to refilling stations, so plan accordingly. Also bring energy-rich snacks such as nuts, cereal bars, and dried fruit.  

• Sun protection: the southern Italian sun can be intense, particularly in summer. Use high-factor sunscreen, sunglasses, and a sunhat.  

• Rest: listen to your body. Don’t hesitate to stop and rest when needed. Your muscles and joints can take a toll from extended walking, so regular breaks are essential.  

This article was published as part of the initiative: Cohesion and Development Fund – Development and Cohesion Plan under the auspices of the Italian Ministry of Culture (Form 33 – Via Francigena – Cross-cutting actions. Project submission form “Communication and Promotion Plan”).